Mid-June – Mid-August, 2023.
The Vagabonds have heard inviting reports about the Balkan Peninsula countries (consisting mostly of the former Yugoslavia territories), so we decide to visit for the summer. We rent a car and set out to see the sights. Unlike our usual approach of establishing a longer-term central location from which to do day-trips, this time we stay only a few days in each location in order to experience more of the countryside.
Zagreb, Croatia (Republik Hrvatske)
Our first stop is Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. There are a million people in the city’s general area, but it feels like a manageable, livable place. There are lots of buses and trollies, and it is very walkable.
The city reminds us of a small-version cross between Paris and Moscow with overstuffed 5 to 7 story buildings with grand windows and facades built in the late 1800’s of stone or grey, concrete-like materials. Many are in obvious need of repair and paint perhaps due in part to a large-magnitude earthquake in March, 2020 that damaged most older buildings. So, many buildings are in process of renovation; scaffolding is seen everywhere.
Jelacica Square is the centerpiece of the city with its nearby cathedral, a large daily market, and impressive old hotels.
There is an evident civic pride; the streets are remarkably clean with no litter and no homeless people. Small businesses, residences, government offices and embassies abound. There are numerous inviting parks – city blocks big – with grass, fountains, and gazebos.
That evening we find a wine festival at a park near where we are staying with offerings from all over Croatia and Slovenia.
Afterward, we walk to another park where there is a classical music performance on an outdoors stage with lawn seating. There are a thousand or more people in attendance.
We learn that today is Statehood Day in Croatia, which we presume to be like our Independence Day. However, we prefer to think that the holiday, wine festival and concert are sponsored by the city to welcome us to Hrvatske.
Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovia
We drive southeast to Sarajevo over a modern freeway with little traffic. The landscape quickly changes from hilly to flat fields of corn, reminding us of eastern France. As we get closer to Sarajevo, the largest city in the Bosnia section of the country, the landscape becomes much hillier again.
Sarajevo is a modern capital city with about 300,000 residents located in a narrow river valley ringed by mountains. It’s “East meets West” history is apparent: the Ottoman old town, Bascarsija, has narrow, winding streets filled with market stalls, mosques, and fountains . . .
. . . then, across a literal line in the street . . .
. . . begins the influence of the Hapsburg Empire from the later 1800’s, as well as investment by Yugoslavia in preparation for the 1984 Winter Olympics.
The city also remains acutely aware that it is the historical location of the assassination of Archduke Ferdinand of Austria-Hungary by Serb nationalists in 1914 which sparked WWI.
And it remains focused on its civil war of 1992 to 1995 after Yugoslavia fell apart; “Sarajevo Roses” - starburst indentations on the pavement from shell impacts during the war - are painted red to form a rose-like pattern as a remembrance of this horrific time.
We enjoy the city. As we arrive a rehearsal is in process for an outdoor operettic performance at the National Theatre just around the corner from our lodging. There are 25 singers in the chorus, 6 or 8 soloists (each with magnificent operatic voices) and a small symphony orchestra of 40 musicians. We grab a fresh local beer, sit across the street, and listen to the amazing performance. We notice that many people smoke cigarettes, even inside public buildings.
Later, we stroll up a hill to a small, rustic, eclectic restaurant serving yummy, inexpensive local dishes. On our way, we pass several homes where live sheep are being taken inside as tomorrow is the “Feast of the Sacrifice” in the Muslim religion when families sacrifice an animal for Allah.
The next day we ride a cable car up to the top of the southern mountain side of the town. Great view. We see the old bobsled track (now abandon) from the 1984 Olympics. We also tour the city museum to learn more of the history of the place, and participate in a guided walking tour of town. As in Zagreb, the people are seemingly affluent and proud of their city.
Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovia
Next we drive further south to the city of Mostar in the Herzegovian region of the country. It has a distinctly Ottoman-flavor like the Bascarsija section of Sarajevo.
We take a city tour with, Milli, a local man of about 50. He tells us his story that as a teenager during the civil war, he was captured by the invading Croatian militia, taken from his family, and placed in a concentration camp. He eventually was freed and, with much help, made his way to Norway. It was 17 years before he returned.
He is proud of being Herzegovinian and is a keen observer of the history and condition of his country:
Austria-Hungary (the Hapsburgs) did more to advance the region in 40 years in the late 1800’s than the Ottomans did in the 400 years before that. The Hapsburg’s big mistake was not doing enough to create a middle class. He sees this as the reason rebels assassinated Archduke Ferdinand.
The Yugoslav era was the highlight of the country’s history. It was the longest period of peace ever for the region; even in Ottoman times there was regular war with Venice (along the coast) and others in central Europe. The economy advanced with new industries, increased literacy, and a higher standard of living than before.
When Yugoslavia unraveled in the 1980’s (after the dictator Tito died) the ancient rivalries re-emerged between the Croats (Roman Catholics), Serbs (Eastern Orthodox Catholics), and Bosniaks (Muslims). Each group fostered old nationalistic views and set about dividing up the country, which initiated the civil war in the 1990’s.
Since the war, the government is ineffective and inefficient with many, overlapping layers. Unemployment is very high, there is a large cash-based economy in which regular people participate to avoid taxes. Bribery is very common.
The way-forward for his country to join the European Union. He observes that Slovenia and Croatia have greatly benefited economically from being in the EU. But this is unlikely in the foreseeable future.
Milli shows us the sites in Mostar:
The Old Bridge (Stari Most): built in the mid-1500’s by the Ottoman, this stone-arch bridge rises 25 meters above the river and unites the two halves of the old town. It is a free-standing arch – arguably the oldest and biggest such bridge in the world.
The river Neretva which flows under the Old Bridge: It is considered to be the coldest water for a river in the world; water temperatures average 7 degrees C in summer and near 0 degrees C in winter. The river originates high (1200 meters) in the mountains fed by glaciers. The water is an amazingly clear torques blue. Divers regularly jump from Stari Most into the river to the delight of the tourists.
Koski Mehmet Pasha Mosque: dates from the 1600’s and is the largest mosque in the city with a tall stone minaret.
Coppersmith Street (Kujundziluk): a Turkish bazaar-like feeling with lots of small shops along a narrow, winding street. It connects the Mosque area with the Old Bridge area.
Franciscan Church of Sts Peter and Paul: built in 1997 to replace older destroyed church it is next to the old Franciscan monastery (the monks still operate the church). It has a 350-foot minaret-like bell tower. Inside is a dazzling, mosaic-like religious decoration on the walls and ceiling – very modern designs with bright, inspiring colors.
We find a wine store (Via Vino) whose owner, Emir, invites us for an evening of tasting Herzegovinan wines (where all of the Bosnia-Herzegovina wine originates).
We find discover that the blatina red grape variety is exclusively cultivated in Herzegovia and produces a medium-bodied wine with red-berry fruits with gentle tannins. Conversely, the vranac grape creates a full-bodied wine of dark color and structure, and the rarer trnjak grape has a more complex flavor of ripe red fruits and spices. The white zilavka grape has deep roots to cope with the heat. It makes fresh, light wines with gentle floral aromas, peach notes and good body and texture, and some acidity. We conclude that there is a good reason why these wines are not widely marketed.
Dubrovnik, Croatia (traditionally Republik Ragusa)
At the Adriatic Sea coast is the resort city of Dubrovnik. It has a long history of trade and independence. The architecture is reminiscent of Italy – a wide, stone market street with dozens of narrow passageway streets on the sides. The sun is strong and bright; highs are near 90 degrees. But there is often a sea breeze. The town is busy with tourists; and several cruise ships a day stop here.
This is a proud and profitable trading city with a strong desire for independence. For 300 years (from the mid-1300’s to the mid-1600’s) Dubrovnik (then called Ragusa) maintained a robust navy and conducted profitable trading throughout the Mediterranean and even as far as England and Holland. Unfortunately, a huge earthquake in 1667 destroyed much of the city.
The city has many highlights:
Stradun: the main street lined with shops (with P-shaped doors; one side to enter, the other with a display of merchandise). The buildings are rather plain; the city downplayed its wealth since it didn’t want to have to increase the tribute paid to the Ottomans, Venetians, and others to keep the peace.
Orlando’s Column: erected in 1417 soon after the city shifted allegiances from Venice to Hungary. It was the spot where the town crier announced the news. It is currently in restoration.
Sponza Palace: one of the only buildings to survive the earthquake; it was built in 1522 and shows what much of the Stradun looked like in its hayday.
Bell Tower: originally from 1444, it has human-size, bronze bell-ringers (Maro and Baro).
St. Blaise’s Church: dedicated to the town’s patron saint, whose image is everywhere in town (usually holding a model of the town in his hand).
City Wall: 1¼ miles long, it still surrounds the town. The wall has existed since the middle ages and was significantly enhanced in the 1400’s at the height of the city's power.
Rector’s Palace: the city was administered by a rector appointed from the nobility for short terms of office (to avoid anyone getting too powerful).
Maritime Museum: which tells the story of Dubrovnik’s naval dominance in the 1400 – 1600’s. Interestingly (to us) there is almost no mention of Portugal’s naval explorations and navigation inventions.
Rupe Granary: Built in the 1500’s with 15 cavernous underground grain storage silos carved into the bedrock. It’s three stories were used to dry the grain before storage. Now it houses an interesting folk museum displaying artifacts from the 1700 – early 1900’s.
Mljet National Park
We take a catamaran / ferry from Dubrovnik for the two hour trip to the island Mljet. The western third is a national park centered around a beautiful series of lakes which are connected with the sea via a narrow canal; this creates a tidal effect changing the direction of flow each six hours. On an island in the lake is a thousand-year-old Dominican monastery.
Bay of Kotor, Montenegro (Republika Crna Gora – the black mountain)
The vagabonds drive south from Dubrovnik into Montenegro. Like Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovia, Montenegro was an independent kingdom during the middle ages then was controlled by Austria-Hungary and became part of Yugoslavia after WWI. When Yugoslavia dissolved in the 1980’s, Montenegro became part of Serbia and in 2006 became an independent country. It is ethnically Eastern Orthodox.
The bay is large and stunning with steep mountains rising up 3 to 4,000 feet around it. There are many boats, including cruise ships. And there are many mussel farms along the shores. The roads, however, are narrow, crowded with traffic, and have multiple switchbacks as they wind up and down the mountains. The villages are close to the road and are reminders of the communist era; many are concrete, grey, and run-down.
The walled town of Kotor is the largest town along the bay. It has a very impressive old town with many small, twisty streets and lots of small squares. There are several lovely churches (both orthodox and catholic). And there is a nice farmers market along the outside of the walls. The town has a long harbor along the bay; there are several large cruise ships anchored here, along with lots of yachts (we are told that many of them belong to Russian oligarchs).
We climb the town wall. It goes almost straight up the mountain behind the town; there are 1,355 stone steps. It takes us at least an hour to make it to the top – which has a nice vantage point view of the town and the bay. But there is a lot of sun and little shade. We are exhausted by the time we get back down again.
Afterward back along the northern shore of the bay we find a mussel and oyster farm run by a quirky, solitary fellow of perhaps 60 years. We take a dirt path from the highway down to the waterfront. He is swimming when we arrive about 6:30p; there are no other guests.
His shop / restaurant is homemade: a floating platform of about 15 m square, painted blue. We have to jump a ½ meter span over the water to board the platform (which had floated a bit away from the shore). There are dozens of small ropes hanging over the railing of the platform and into the water. We soon see that they are attached to sorted containers of various size mussels and oysters, as well as to various bottles of homemade wine that is chilling in the bay.
He speaks little English, but (commerce being the great communicator) he soon makes it clear that we should pick the size oyster we want (he has 4 sizes each in different containers) or pick mussels that he would heat up for us. We make our pick; he sets about scrubbing off their shells and prying them open at his workbench in one corner of the platform. He also gives us few raw mussels to try. And he pours small glasses of his homemade wine from a bottle that he dredges up from the water.
The oysters are fresh, large and meaty, but not particularly flavorful. The mussels, however, are sweet and delicious.
After we eat, the proprietor pours us two rounds of homemade “degestivo” which he says is good for our "heart and insides". We have never had a meal quite like this one!
Peljesca Peninsula, Croatia
It takes the vagabonds about 3 hours to drive the two lane, twisty-turny road from Kotor to Orebic at the northwestern end of the Peljesca peninsula. The peninsula, part of the Dalmatian coast, is about 65 km long and a few km wide. It has rugged, mountainous spine and is surrounded by the clear, turquoise water of the Adriatic Sea.
There are many islands just off of the coast. There are many small beaches too, although most are rocky as opposed to sandy; It is July so the temperature is in the upper 30’s to 40 degrees C but they are not over-crowded. Each evening there are dozens and dozens of windsurfers zipping along in the coastal waters.
We rent an apartment on a hillside overlooking the sea from a charming, eccentric German couple, Ulli and Geert, and spend six nights here relaxing, visiting wineries, and enjoying the summer sun. It is the most pleasant time of the entire trip.
There are a dozen or so wineries on the peninsula; most are small, family-owned operations. They are proud of their wines and generous with their time in explaining them. Some of their tasting rooms are elegant, and purpose-built; others are just a room set aside in their house.
Either way, the main grape variety is the red grape plavic mali. It makes wine that is intense, tannic and can have a flavor range from syrah-like to petite verdot-like to granache-like. We like it a lot. The best plavac mali comes from the Dingac appellation on the southwestern side of the peninsula facing the Adriatic Sea. The grapes receive intense sunlight, sea breezes, and grow on very steep, limestone cliffs so are properly stressed. (Notice the vineyards on the steep lower sides of the mountain in the picture below.) Dingac was the first region in Croatia to gain application-like designation (and protection from others using the name) in the 1960’s.
Interestingly, two old indigenous Croatian grape varieties, crljenak kastelanski and dobrcic, which are regarded as the parents of today’s zinfandel varietal, grow here. Crljenak kastelanski is exceedingly rare and thought to have perished in the phylloxera infestation in the late 1800’s. But recently, a few of these vines have been re-discovered on the peninsula and are being cultivated.
Split, Croatia
Revived, we drive a short way north to the town of Split. It is a seacoast town with a nice harbor. And although there are a lot of tourists, it is also a real town where locals live and work (about 175,000 of them). We stay in the old town with its labyrinth of white stone streets, buildings, and small squares to really get sense of the history and verve of the town. The centerpiece is The Riva - a wide stone pedestrian walkway along the harbor that is perfect for people-watching.
The town’s most impressive historical site is also along The Riva: Diocletian’s Palace.
He was the Emperor of Rome in the third century AD and built a huge palace in Split in which to retire. It is square with 600 ft long sides and housed 700 servants and soldiers.
The palace remains in remarkably good condition with impressive red granite pillars, black stone sphinx from Egypt, and elaborately decorated gates.
Plitvice Lakes National Park
The vagabonds head northeast to Plitvice Lake, a series of mountain-fed lakes that became Croatia’s first national park, and reputedly one of Europe’s best. Around and in-between the lakes are miles of well-constructed hiking paths. The main event is the waterfalls; dozens and dozens of them, some as tall as 90 meters. We stay the whole day hiking and riding a boat across one of the larger lakes. The park is at 3,000 feet elevation but it is still warm (30 degrees C).
Opatija, Croatia
Going northwest, we enter the Istria Peninsula. As we near the coast the temperature heats up again. This town grew up in the late 1800’s as the “Riviera” for eastern European well-to-do folks (vs the French Riviera for western Europeans). Buildings sport a decided Austrian (Viennese) / Victorian appearance, and the hotels appear updated and fancy. There are lots of people swimming in the bay and sunbathing. But there is no beach; only concrete docks. Not very inviting, but certainly very expensive.
